1
00:00:45,320 --> 00:00:47,079
Olive oil is a living being.
2
00:00:49,520 --> 00:00:53,759
It comes from a tree that concentrates
its entire essence and energy
3
00:00:53,920 --> 00:00:55,359
in a flower
4
00:00:56,960 --> 00:00:58,960
That flower becomes an olive.
5
00:01:01,640 --> 00:01:05,200
We extract the essence of that fruit
as juice
6
00:01:05,519 --> 00:01:07,480
that we turn into olive oil.
7
00:01:10,560 --> 00:01:14,079
A distillate of time,
geology and beauty.
8
00:01:14,799 --> 00:01:17,079
As it belongs to a certain area,
9
00:01:17,280 --> 00:01:21,319
the oil has steeped itself
in a unique history and culture.
10
00:01:27,920 --> 00:01:31,680
Jaén means olive groves.
We're both here,
11
00:01:31,959 --> 00:01:35,120
there are olive groves
wherever you look.
12
00:01:35,599 --> 00:01:39,480
So if we see that, it means Jaén
is the mother of the olive grove.
13
00:01:43,239 --> 00:01:47,239
When you see those trees,
these are the lungs of Spain.
14
00:01:50,719 --> 00:01:54,239
The world's largest artificial forest.
15
00:01:54,799 --> 00:01:57,120
There are 70 millions olive trees
in Jaén alone.
16
00:02:15,919 --> 00:02:19,240
Athena blesses her people
with the olive tree.
17
00:02:19,400 --> 00:02:23,240
It was to be a divine product
right from its origins.
18
00:02:23,919 --> 00:02:26,439
The trees can be thousands
of years old.
19
00:02:26,719 --> 00:02:31,039
They do not need tending to
every year like other crops.
20
00:02:31,400 --> 00:02:33,639
An olive tree can survive
21
00:02:34,520 --> 00:02:36,960
and grow to be
a thousand years old.
22
00:02:37,639 --> 00:02:40,719
If it is left untouched,
it carries on existing.
23
00:03:03,479 --> 00:03:07,840
Minerva, the Roman Athena,
had close ties to the olive tree.
24
00:03:08,000 --> 00:03:12,719
She was the Goddess
of wisdom, handicrafts, commerce.
25
00:03:15,039 --> 00:03:19,319
We have accounts that talk about
oil from the region of Jaén.
26
00:03:19,960 --> 00:03:21,719
There is an inscription
27
00:03:22,280 --> 00:03:25,280
that reads
Rescriptum sacrum dere olearia.
28
00:03:25,840 --> 00:03:29,680
Imperial regulations
on the subject of oil.
29
00:03:31,639 --> 00:03:35,199
Rome needed to supply
the city of Rome itself with oil.
30
00:03:35,360 --> 00:03:39,319
It needed to supply the army,
wherever it was.
31
00:03:39,560 --> 00:03:42,840
For that, massive oil production
was necessary.
32
00:03:44,639 --> 00:03:47,599
A block of local natural limestone.
33
00:03:47,840 --> 00:03:53,319
It actually served as a counterweight
for the press joist in Roman times.
34
00:03:53,680 --> 00:03:57,199
The size also indicates
the milling production scale.
35
00:03:57,840 --> 00:04:01,280
We have to think
of an industrial activity.
36
00:04:08,840 --> 00:04:12,680
We reconstructed a building
with a row of six oil presses.
37
00:04:12,840 --> 00:04:17,000
It's unique, there is nowhere
like this in the Mediterranean,
38
00:04:17,160 --> 00:04:19,920
no facility of its kind
in the Empire.
39
00:04:20,079 --> 00:04:24,399
They knew how many trees
they would plant
40
00:04:24,800 --> 00:04:27,600
in order to supply a factory
of this kind
41
00:04:28,000 --> 00:04:30,360
producing a huge amount of oil.
42
00:04:33,439 --> 00:04:36,120
These presses were built
for exporting oil.
43
00:04:36,279 --> 00:04:39,879
The massive demand
for food products in the Empire
44
00:04:40,120 --> 00:04:43,079
to supply Rome's population.
45
00:04:43,560 --> 00:04:46,199
Oil, wine and bread, or wheat,
46
00:04:46,560 --> 00:04:49,240
are the magic trilogy
of western civilization.
47
00:04:49,399 --> 00:04:52,000
Other than that,
there is only barbarism.
48
00:04:52,160 --> 00:04:55,360
Because the legacy
of those people
49
00:04:55,519 --> 00:04:59,240
is to give a civilized identity
to those of us who are civilized...
50
00:04:59,399 --> 00:05:02,720
-The Greeks.
-No, it was the Romans.
51
00:05:02,920 --> 00:05:07,759
Oil was prized for many reasons.
52
00:05:08,120 --> 00:05:10,399
It was a part of nutrition,
53
00:05:10,560 --> 00:05:12,240
it was used as lighting fuel,
54
00:05:12,399 --> 00:05:15,040
athletes coated their bodies
with oil...
55
00:05:15,199 --> 00:05:16,639
It is noble.
56
00:05:17,399 --> 00:05:19,879
It helped to preserve food.
57
00:05:20,639 --> 00:05:24,800
Oil was really the green liquid gold
of antiquity.
58
00:05:27,560 --> 00:05:32,319
Initially it was a challenge:
will we be able achieve the goal?
59
00:05:32,639 --> 00:05:35,240
Make a balanced, complete
dish or menu
60
00:05:35,480 --> 00:05:39,439
without potato, avocado,
tomato, cacao.
61
00:05:39,600 --> 00:05:43,360
The way Abderramán III
would eat and live today.
62
00:05:46,279 --> 00:05:51,199
To be able to cook, sauté properly,
without tomato or paprika.
63
00:05:51,360 --> 00:05:53,759
Fortunately, we had
extra virgin olive oil.
64
00:05:53,920 --> 00:05:56,399
It was our salvation!
65
00:06:10,480 --> 00:06:15,399
The Arab baths of Jaén still retain
66
00:06:16,040 --> 00:06:19,720
the muffled echo of distant daily life
in the silence of their rooms.
67
00:06:19,879 --> 00:06:24,279
There were conversations here,
a relaxed atmosphere and repose.
68
00:06:25,120 --> 00:06:29,720
Those who frequented the baths
found time to discuss local affairs.
69
00:06:30,399 --> 00:06:35,199
To talk about a Jaén of the past,
a city with other beliefs.
70
00:07:38,600 --> 00:07:42,360
It is no coincidence that when we were
part of the Roman Empire,
71
00:07:42,519 --> 00:07:45,959
Jaén was where oil was produced
for the Empire.
72
00:07:46,480 --> 00:07:47,560
It was here.
73
00:07:47,720 --> 00:07:51,439
And even today they still use it.
So the Italians
74
00:07:51,759 --> 00:07:55,439
have known where good oil
is produced for 3,000 years.
75
00:08:08,199 --> 00:08:09,800
There are many amphitheatres,
76
00:08:09,959 --> 00:08:12,000
but Monte Testaccio is unique.
77
00:08:13,319 --> 00:08:17,680
It is one of Rome's
most amazing monuments.
78
00:08:27,639 --> 00:08:31,079
This is where they discarded
the pots
79
00:08:31,439 --> 00:08:35,399
in which taxes were brought
to Rome from the provinces.
80
00:08:35,639 --> 00:08:38,720
It is mostly from one province,
Baetica,
81
00:08:38,879 --> 00:08:41,960
and consists exclusively
of one product: oil.
82
00:08:44,440 --> 00:08:48,960
In Roman times,
this was 7 metres above sea level.
83
00:08:49,440 --> 00:08:53,159
Today, the highest point
is almost 50 metres
84
00:08:53,480 --> 00:08:56,360
above sea level.
That's how high the hill is.
85
00:08:57,440 --> 00:09:01,960
The layer of humus is very shallow.
There are tiles on the surface.
86
00:09:02,759 --> 00:09:06,080
If you dig down 30cm,
87
00:09:06,240 --> 00:09:09,240
there are just amphoras
without any soil.
88
00:09:10,120 --> 00:09:12,120
Amphora after amphora.
89
00:09:13,639 --> 00:09:17,120
The only place where there is no soil.
90
00:09:17,399 --> 00:09:20,000
There are only archaeological relics.
91
00:09:21,279 --> 00:09:23,840
All of these amphoras arrived
92
00:09:24,000 --> 00:09:26,639
in thousands of ships that reached
93
00:09:26,799 --> 00:09:30,039
the city's river port
over the centuries
94
00:09:30,200 --> 00:09:32,679
and that were a bit like
plastic bottles.
95
00:09:32,840 --> 00:09:36,679
Cheap, standard containers
96
00:09:36,879 --> 00:09:40,120
that it isn't worth
sending back empty.
97
00:09:40,320 --> 00:09:45,320
That is why the oil amphoras
ended up on Monte Testaccio.
98
00:09:48,000 --> 00:09:51,440
This is where the used containers
would be left
99
00:09:52,000 --> 00:09:56,519
with enough oil to feed
half a million people
100
00:09:56,840 --> 00:09:58,720
for 250 years.
101
00:09:59,559 --> 00:10:02,720
In Baetica, amphora factories
102
00:10:03,240 --> 00:10:07,440
are only on the navigable stretches
of the Guadalquivir river.
103
00:10:10,360 --> 00:10:12,679
The different spots where oil
is produced
104
00:10:12,840 --> 00:10:14,279
are connected to the river
105
00:10:14,440 --> 00:10:17,480
by a huge road network
in Roman times.
106
00:10:17,840 --> 00:10:21,000
That is the area where amphoras
are being made.
107
00:10:22,679 --> 00:10:24,200
Okay, here we go.
108
00:10:29,720 --> 00:10:32,120
The amphoras were made
in three stages.
109
00:10:32,279 --> 00:10:34,240
One as far as the "belly".
110
00:10:35,720 --> 00:10:41,159
They were formed upside down
on the potter's wheel.
111
00:10:42,080 --> 00:10:44,480
This pointed part was left.
112
00:10:44,799 --> 00:10:48,639
Later, the neck was formed.
113
00:10:49,559 --> 00:10:52,799
When it had dried a little,
114
00:10:53,080 --> 00:10:55,159
the two parts were joined.
115
00:10:56,679 --> 00:10:58,960
And the handles were attached.
116
00:11:04,440 --> 00:11:07,440
The process required
these three stages.
117
00:11:08,440 --> 00:11:12,000
Here you can see the marks
of the wheel. These are parallel
118
00:11:12,639 --> 00:11:15,679
to where the potter exerted
more pressure,
119
00:11:16,000 --> 00:11:18,799
but a tool was used
and left these marks.
120
00:11:19,279 --> 00:11:24,200
Pressure was needed
to join both these parts.
121
00:11:24,799 --> 00:11:28,639
These are good and solid.
You could bang in a nail with it.
122
00:11:29,799 --> 00:11:32,360
I always say
we're not good enough
123
00:11:32,559 --> 00:11:35,799
even to mix the clay
for the potters of that era.
124
00:11:36,399 --> 00:11:39,960
They were real artists,
but they had to be.
125
00:11:40,120 --> 00:11:44,720
Who knows how many of these
they had to make every day.
126
00:11:46,679 --> 00:11:48,600
This clay is from the olive groves.
127
00:11:48,759 --> 00:11:52,919
You can see that it has a rich colour,
lots of iron.
128
00:11:53,480 --> 00:11:57,080
That's the clay that we use
to shape the pieces.
129
00:11:57,399 --> 00:12:02,000
In the end, the fruit ends up
in the clay once again.
130
00:12:02,600 --> 00:12:04,000
Back to its soil.
131
00:12:05,200 --> 00:12:07,799
When you travel by car, for example,
132
00:12:08,039 --> 00:12:11,600
to Europe, the south of France,
you say it's a civilized place.
133
00:12:11,759 --> 00:12:15,799
And then suddenly you realise
that they use butter!
134
00:12:15,960 --> 00:12:18,519
"We're in barbarian territory,
these are Goths,
135
00:12:18,679 --> 00:12:22,120
Visigoths and Ostrogoths."
You drive south
136
00:12:22,279 --> 00:12:26,200
to Italy and say,
"Thank God, civilization again!"
137
00:12:29,039 --> 00:12:33,519
They only fat we will use in this dish
is extra virgin olive oil.
138
00:12:36,840 --> 00:12:40,080
It has many advantages over butter.
139
00:12:40,320 --> 00:12:43,720
It's lighter, when you eat it
you feel better.
140
00:12:44,600 --> 00:12:47,480
When butter is part of the tradition,
141
00:12:47,840 --> 00:12:52,679
they would use a fair knob of butter
to make rice pudding.
142
00:12:55,039 --> 00:12:59,159
Now, however, I'd like to pay tribute
to local products:
143
00:12:59,320 --> 00:13:01,039
citrus fruits...
144
00:13:02,039 --> 00:13:03,559
and olive oil.
145
00:13:06,279 --> 00:13:08,799
We're using natural cane sugar.
146
00:13:09,000 --> 00:13:12,320
Which sort of rice pudding
do we prefer? Brûlée.
147
00:13:13,360 --> 00:13:17,120
The rice crackles
because we're toasting it.
148
00:13:18,639 --> 00:13:19,799
We turn this off.
149
00:13:19,960 --> 00:13:22,440
We'll top it off
with more citrus fruits.
150
00:13:23,120 --> 00:13:25,159
This dish is naughty but nice,
151
00:13:25,320 --> 00:13:28,000
because it's fantastic
any way you look at it.
152
00:13:28,759 --> 00:13:31,120
It helps sustain the olive grove,
153
00:13:31,279 --> 00:13:34,519
ensuring people use olive oil
instead of other fats,
154
00:13:34,679 --> 00:13:35,720
always extra virgin.
155
00:13:38,480 --> 00:13:43,120
When you go to buy oil,
you see "Extra virgin olive oil".
156
00:13:43,399 --> 00:13:45,159
You have no idea.
157
00:13:45,320 --> 00:13:48,919
Extra virgin olive oil
is the juice of the olive.
158
00:13:49,240 --> 00:13:52,279
It's oil, of course,
but it's additive-free.
159
00:13:52,440 --> 00:13:57,240
It smells of nature,
it's bitter, peppery, but it's clean.
160
00:13:57,480 --> 00:13:59,799
You mean during tasting?
161
00:14:00,080 --> 00:14:01,919
During tasting and also
162
00:14:02,080 --> 00:14:05,159
in accordance with parameters
laid down for lab testing.
163
00:14:05,440 --> 00:14:08,679
"Virgin" is juice from the olive
164
00:14:09,240 --> 00:14:11,879
that is fruity, bitter and peppery,
165
00:14:12,039 --> 00:14:16,320
but where you can detect,
in the lab or on the palate,
166
00:14:17,039 --> 00:14:20,440
a defect.
That defect isn't so intense
167
00:14:20,720 --> 00:14:23,360
as to classify it in a lower category.
168
00:14:23,679 --> 00:14:25,559
So we're referring to
virgin olive oil.
169
00:14:25,840 --> 00:14:29,480
It still smells of nature,
it has its properties...
170
00:14:29,639 --> 00:14:32,960
-But extra is obviously better.
-Precisely.
171
00:14:37,200 --> 00:14:41,679
Virgin olive oil provides virtually
the same things as extra virgin,
172
00:14:42,799 --> 00:14:45,440
but now they almost cost the same.
173
00:14:45,720 --> 00:14:49,200
So it's almost a question of...
174
00:14:50,600 --> 00:14:55,320
being practical, you buy extra virgin
and use it for everything.
175
00:14:55,840 --> 00:15:01,279
It will always retain an aromatic note
better than a traditional
176
00:15:01,840 --> 00:15:02,840
virgin olive oil.
177
00:15:03,600 --> 00:15:05,080
This is ready.
178
00:15:05,240 --> 00:15:09,799
People are already aware,
they research it. "Why virgin?"
179
00:15:10,320 --> 00:15:12,120
Why not just olive oil?
180
00:15:13,919 --> 00:15:16,720
But what is olive oil?
181
00:15:16,960 --> 00:15:18,919
Is it mild or intense?
182
00:15:19,159 --> 00:15:21,679
The general public
is obsessed with 0.4.
183
00:15:21,840 --> 00:15:24,320
They associate acidity with flavour.
184
00:15:24,799 --> 00:15:26,440
That is a big mistake.
185
00:15:26,799 --> 00:15:29,639
Firstly, olive oils are not acidic.
186
00:15:29,799 --> 00:15:34,559
The acidity measures
the sanitary parameters of the olive.
187
00:15:35,200 --> 00:15:37,840
It has nothing to do with the flavour.
188
00:15:38,000 --> 00:15:43,840
In the world of haute cuisine
the chefs still say to you:
189
00:15:44,000 --> 00:15:47,320
"You need a 0.4 oil for this."
What are you on about?
190
00:15:47,480 --> 00:15:50,039
They say, "No, oil is a fat
191
00:15:50,200 --> 00:15:52,879
and there are lots of fats."
No, no.
192
00:15:53,120 --> 00:15:56,679
All the other vegetable oils
that we eat
193
00:15:56,919 --> 00:15:59,320
must be refined.
Meaning?
194
00:15:59,759 --> 00:16:04,799
Removing the colour, the smell,
and the flavour to make it neutral.
195
00:16:05,159 --> 00:16:09,720
The only fat that has
sensory attributes of aroma, flavour,
196
00:16:09,879 --> 00:16:11,759
is extra virgin olive oil.
197
00:16:13,639 --> 00:16:18,879
At what temperature should we fry?
175-180, not higher.
198
00:16:19,039 --> 00:16:23,440
The smoke point of olive oil
is 205 degrees centigrade.
199
00:16:29,000 --> 00:16:30,519
Food fried properly
200
00:16:30,679 --> 00:16:34,200
should be nicely browned,
but not burnt.
201
00:16:35,240 --> 00:16:37,000
Frying is an art, too.
202
00:16:38,320 --> 00:16:41,639
The oil remains on the surface,
steam cooks the food
203
00:16:41,840 --> 00:16:44,559
fast deep frying with olive oil.
204
00:16:44,919 --> 00:16:49,039
Whiting has very, very delicate flesh.
205
00:16:51,559 --> 00:16:54,080
It can be overcooked right away.
206
00:16:56,360 --> 00:17:00,879
This technique, however,
ensures the oil cooks it perfectly.
207
00:17:03,559 --> 00:17:05,200
There are three oil categories:
208
00:17:05,559 --> 00:17:09,559
extra virgin olive oil,
virgin olive oil, lampante olive oil.
209
00:17:09,720 --> 00:17:11,200
Lampante comes from lamp,
210
00:17:11,359 --> 00:17:15,960
because it wasn't edible,
it was used for lighting homes.
211
00:17:16,119 --> 00:17:19,839
The fruit has deteriorated?
It needs to be taken to firms
212
00:17:20,000 --> 00:17:23,559
where chemical processes
make it apt for consumption.
213
00:17:23,720 --> 00:17:27,400
What is sold as olive oil
comes from the refinery.
214
00:17:28,000 --> 00:17:30,319
It must be virgin or extra virgin.
215
00:17:31,599 --> 00:17:33,599
When an oil loses its virginity
216
00:17:33,759 --> 00:17:36,519
because it is refined,
it loses everything.
217
00:17:36,680 --> 00:17:39,759
The minority compounds are lost
218
00:17:39,920 --> 00:17:42,519
through the refining process
leaving only fatty acids.
219
00:17:43,880 --> 00:17:46,279
All the magic is lost.
220
00:17:46,680 --> 00:17:48,079
That's Fanta.
221
00:17:49,200 --> 00:17:50,519
It's not juice.
222
00:19:12,759 --> 00:19:16,759
Traditionally, Jaén was a province
that produced
223
00:19:17,119 --> 00:19:20,559
vegetable fat, it was actually
an undifferentiated product.
224
00:19:22,920 --> 00:19:26,799
Picual, the most widespread,
traditional varietal,
225
00:19:26,960 --> 00:19:28,839
the DNA of our province,
226
00:19:29,160 --> 00:19:33,799
was an oil that was taken for granted,
picked when the fruit was ripe
227
00:19:33,960 --> 00:19:35,640
to achieve high yields.
228
00:19:35,799 --> 00:19:39,200
It was the typical oil used to mix
229
00:19:39,359 --> 00:19:42,400
with other oils in order to obtain
a longer shelf life.
230
00:20:10,359 --> 00:20:11,839
Back then it was extracted
231
00:20:12,000 --> 00:20:15,960
with the maximum temperature
possible in the boiler.
232
00:20:16,160 --> 00:20:19,359
It was a hand-stoked boiler
that had to be fed all the time,
233
00:20:19,599 --> 00:20:22,759
because they said
the more heat, the better.
234
00:20:23,079 --> 00:20:24,680
As millers,
235
00:20:24,839 --> 00:20:28,599
we would work in shirt sleeves
and shorts.
236
00:20:28,839 --> 00:20:32,799
When you finished, you went outside
for some fresh air.
237
00:20:33,920 --> 00:20:35,799
It was sold in bulk.
238
00:20:35,960 --> 00:20:39,359
It wasn't sold in bottles then,
only in bulk.
239
00:20:39,759 --> 00:20:42,880
There was 5-10 cents difference
in price.
240
00:20:43,039 --> 00:20:48,680
because producing oil when the fruit
is in optimum conditions
241
00:20:48,839 --> 00:20:52,880
means less of a yield, less oil,
and it makes the product dearer.
242
00:20:53,039 --> 00:20:55,880
If you sold it in bulk
that wasn't worth it.
243
00:21:31,319 --> 00:21:34,480
Heat used to mean more yield.
244
00:21:34,839 --> 00:21:37,279
Now, though, the quality is better.
245
00:21:37,559 --> 00:21:41,079
Sometimes I don't agree with that.
246
00:21:41,480 --> 00:21:45,519
I want more litres and they say,
"No, Juan, it's about quality."
247
00:21:45,920 --> 00:21:49,599
In the end,
I realise that they're right.
248
00:21:51,160 --> 00:21:55,279
Quality oil
is a very recent phenomenon in Spain.
249
00:21:55,519 --> 00:22:01,119
We've gradually introduced it
over the past 25-30 years.
250
00:22:02,720 --> 00:22:05,920
In 1995,
251
00:22:06,079 --> 00:22:08,440
I went to Martos
for the olive festival.
252
00:22:08,599 --> 00:22:11,359
There were heaps of olives
by the roadside.
253
00:22:11,519 --> 00:22:13,839
They were all going to be refined.
254
00:22:19,720 --> 00:22:23,680
Legend and accounts have it
that in Martos,
255
00:22:24,319 --> 00:22:28,079
King Ferdinand IV ordered
the execution of two knights.
256
00:22:28,839 --> 00:22:32,160
They were
Juan and Pedro Alfonso de Carvajal.
257
00:22:32,440 --> 00:22:36,319
Both denied being guilty
of the crime they were accused of.
258
00:22:41,240 --> 00:22:45,839
Before being locked in an iron cage
and thrown off Martos Castle,
259
00:22:46,279 --> 00:22:49,000
the Carvajal brothers cited the King
260
00:22:49,160 --> 00:22:52,680
to appear before God within 30 days.
261
00:22:53,319 --> 00:22:56,720
The date was August 7, 1312.
262
00:23:00,279 --> 00:23:02,720
King Ferdinand travelled through Jaén
263
00:23:02,880 --> 00:23:05,839
in his fight against the Moors
of Granada.
264
00:23:18,359 --> 00:23:22,240
According to the chronicles,
one day he went to rest
265
00:23:22,960 --> 00:23:24,599
and never awoke again.
266
00:23:27,000 --> 00:23:30,079
Nobody saw the King die
on September 7,
267
00:23:30,640 --> 00:23:35,400
exactly one month after the brothers
set a date for him.
268
00:23:48,640 --> 00:23:50,880
It is said
that the condemned men's cage
269
00:23:51,039 --> 00:23:52,839
ended up at the Cruz del Lloro.
270
00:23:57,279 --> 00:24:01,559
Since then, King Ferdinand
has been called the Summoned.
271
00:24:24,200 --> 00:24:26,240
Ninety-five or ninety-seven per cent
272
00:24:26,400 --> 00:24:29,759
of production in Jaén
is Picual olives.
273
00:24:31,319 --> 00:24:34,920
A tiny, almost imperceptible amount,
274
00:24:36,200 --> 00:24:38,640
are Royal olives,
grown in the mountains.
275
00:24:38,799 --> 00:24:41,599
They are native to our area, though.
276
00:24:41,759 --> 00:24:44,440
There is some Arberquina, too.
277
00:24:46,319 --> 00:24:48,160
-This is Arbequina?
-Yes.
278
00:24:49,119 --> 00:24:51,000
So refined, so intense.
279
00:24:51,880 --> 00:24:54,519
-It reminds me of grassy notes.
-Great.
280
00:24:54,680 --> 00:24:57,720
Like from the tomato vine.
281
00:24:57,880 --> 00:24:58,759
Right.
282
00:24:59,279 --> 00:25:02,119
Delicious. They're so different.
Even the colour.
283
00:25:02,279 --> 00:25:05,880
This is brighter, golden-hued.
This one is greener.
284
00:25:10,759 --> 00:25:14,640
It's delicious.
Smooth, silky.
285
00:25:15,200 --> 00:25:16,599
Arbequina is like that.
286
00:25:16,759 --> 00:25:18,519
Usually not as bitter.
287
00:25:18,680 --> 00:25:22,880
Compare it to the Picual
and you'll see it's more piquant.
288
00:25:29,400 --> 00:25:32,720
This one might have a better palate,
a stronger presence.
289
00:25:32,880 --> 00:25:35,240
It might even be milder at the end.
290
00:25:35,680 --> 00:25:39,160
But it's very intense,
the finish is superb.
291
00:25:39,400 --> 00:25:42,119
It's a bit like wine.
The aromas emerge...
292
00:25:42,279 --> 00:25:44,039
at the end.
How interesting.
293
00:25:44,200 --> 00:25:48,119
The fruity intensity
is more noticeable in Picual.
294
00:25:49,599 --> 00:25:51,200
Jaén means olive groves
295
00:25:51,880 --> 00:25:52,960
and Picual.
296
00:25:53,200 --> 00:25:57,640
-It was "cat pee".
-The Italians called it that.
297
00:25:57,880 --> 00:26:00,920
The oil distributed was disgraceful.
298
00:26:01,079 --> 00:26:03,240
Low quality, ripe...
299
00:26:03,400 --> 00:26:05,640
with unpleasant smells,
full of defects.
300
00:26:05,799 --> 00:26:09,000
Picual had that "cat pee" smell.
What is that?
301
00:26:09,160 --> 00:26:11,279
It came from the wild fig tree.
302
00:26:11,480 --> 00:26:16,319
Why? Because Picual
is an extremely sensitive variety.
303
00:26:18,079 --> 00:26:21,480
When they refer to "cat pee"
or "wild fig",
304
00:26:21,799 --> 00:26:24,440
what is left over,
305
00:26:24,680 --> 00:26:26,839
we see that it's not healthy fruit.
306
00:26:27,000 --> 00:26:30,160
The fruit has undergone
slight fermentation.
307
00:26:30,319 --> 00:26:32,920
As soon as fermentation starts,
it triggers
308
00:26:33,079 --> 00:26:35,400
a series of enzymatic reactions
309
00:26:35,759 --> 00:26:39,480
that produce
what we refer to as "defects".
310
00:26:40,519 --> 00:26:44,079
When the Picual reached
maximum ripeness,
311
00:26:44,279 --> 00:26:47,319
since it's very delicate,
the fruit fell to the ground.
312
00:26:47,519 --> 00:26:51,160
Fermentation began as soon as
the olive was bruised.
313
00:26:51,319 --> 00:26:55,680
And that was what produced oil
that was not highly-regarded.
314
00:27:04,079 --> 00:27:07,079
There was a problem
with the pressing process.
315
00:27:07,240 --> 00:27:11,000
Firstly, the lack of hygiene
in the oil press as such.
316
00:27:11,960 --> 00:27:14,160
Baskets were reused, etc.
317
00:27:14,319 --> 00:27:17,000
Also, the process was very slow.
318
00:27:17,519 --> 00:27:21,039
That meant the olive fermented
in the oil mill itself.
319
00:27:29,640 --> 00:27:34,920
If the basket was made of esparto
this affected the flavour of the oil.
320
00:27:40,640 --> 00:27:45,240
The remains of paste that might be
in the basket led to vinegary defects.
321
00:27:45,559 --> 00:27:47,119
To produce extra virgin
322
00:27:47,279 --> 00:27:50,880
it's impossible to do it
using this press system.
323
00:28:03,960 --> 00:28:06,640
While the olives are in the presses,
324
00:28:06,799 --> 00:28:09,799
olive oil flows out from the surface,
325
00:28:10,000 --> 00:28:12,519
mixed with vegetable water
or olive juice,
326
00:28:12,920 --> 00:28:15,440
separated later
in decantation tanks.
327
00:28:40,160 --> 00:28:43,839
Picual is discovered when,
instead of opening oil mills
328
00:28:44,000 --> 00:28:47,920
on December 8th,
Day of the Virgin Mary,
329
00:28:48,079 --> 00:28:52,240
it is brought forward,
harvesting is carried out earlier.
330
00:28:52,519 --> 00:28:56,680
They find that Picual
has a wonderful fruity olive
331
00:28:56,839 --> 00:28:59,839
totally different from ripe fruit.
332
00:29:00,079 --> 00:29:03,640
So early picking, bringing it forward,
333
00:29:03,799 --> 00:29:06,079
is a revolutionary factor.
334
00:29:07,039 --> 00:29:11,240
You were crazy if you went to pick
before the Day of the Virgin.
335
00:29:11,400 --> 00:29:14,000
They called you crazy if you did that.
336
00:29:14,160 --> 00:29:17,200
Whenever you innovate,
they call you crazy.
337
00:29:19,039 --> 00:29:22,319
How are we going to pick olives
in shirt sleeves?
338
00:29:22,480 --> 00:29:24,680
How can we do it in November?
339
00:29:25,480 --> 00:29:29,200
Harvesting was brought forward a month
in ten years,
340
00:29:29,480 --> 00:29:32,720
but the aim is excellence
in oil quality.
341
00:29:32,960 --> 00:29:35,200
We only have a few days for that,
342
00:29:35,359 --> 00:29:38,440
just before the olive turns dark,
343
00:29:38,720 --> 00:29:41,559
when it goes from green to black.
344
00:29:42,759 --> 00:29:46,359
As soon as we decided
to pick olives earlier
345
00:29:46,519 --> 00:29:49,960
it was obviously a shock.
These guys must be mad.
346
00:29:50,160 --> 00:29:52,920
There used to be just a few
of us "mad guys".
347
00:29:53,640 --> 00:29:56,480
Now a lot more people allocate
348
00:29:56,720 --> 00:30:01,119
a tiny part of their production
to this early oil.
349
00:30:01,279 --> 00:30:05,279
We're hooked
thanks to a few crazy guys.
350
00:30:05,680 --> 00:30:09,519
Our first early harvest...
A friend of our father arrived.
351
00:30:09,839 --> 00:30:12,960
He told our father to kick us out.
352
00:30:13,119 --> 00:30:15,319
because we'd gone mad
and would ruin him.
353
00:30:15,480 --> 00:30:19,000
He meant it quite seriously.
I'm talking about 2004.
354
00:30:19,160 --> 00:30:22,200
-What is it? They're picking olives!
-In October!
355
00:30:22,359 --> 00:30:26,000
This will be your ruin!
Kick them out!
356
00:32:43,079 --> 00:32:45,000
So-and-so started today.
He what?
357
00:32:45,160 --> 00:32:47,920
Why wouldn't I start, then?
358
00:32:48,079 --> 00:32:51,920
Your nerves are on edge.
Above all, you feel anxious.
359
00:32:52,880 --> 00:32:55,279
This is a fast-paced activity
in which
360
00:32:55,440 --> 00:32:57,279
anything makes you start.
361
00:32:57,599 --> 00:33:00,519
You might harvest early
and the oils
362
00:33:00,680 --> 00:33:02,640
are still too strong, woody.
363
00:33:02,799 --> 00:33:06,079
If you delay and it's not
what you're looking for,
364
00:33:06,240 --> 00:33:09,200
there's no turning back.
You have to wait a year.
365
00:33:09,359 --> 00:33:13,880
That moment when you say:
now my olive is ready.
366
00:33:14,039 --> 00:33:16,279
This is its best.
367
00:33:16,640 --> 00:33:18,720
We could spend hours talking.
368
00:33:18,880 --> 00:33:21,079
Each person is different.
369
00:33:21,240 --> 00:33:24,000
The right time for you
isn't the right time for me.
370
00:33:24,160 --> 00:33:27,440
Farmers are the ones who decide
what kind of oil we want.
371
00:33:27,599 --> 00:33:32,319
It's insane. When the first couple
of days are over,
372
00:33:32,599 --> 00:33:37,200
the rhythm slows down,
but until you see things working...
373
00:33:37,359 --> 00:33:41,680
You have to plan ahead a little
in case of a backup plan.
374
00:33:41,839 --> 00:33:43,960
Backup plan? I have a plan.
375
00:33:44,160 --> 00:33:46,039
It can't let me down.
376
00:33:46,720 --> 00:33:51,119
I care for my trees,
I might as well be standing...
377
00:33:51,519 --> 00:33:52,839
under the olive
378
00:33:53,440 --> 00:33:57,759
and looking at it so it grows
the way it should.
379
00:33:59,240 --> 00:34:00,720
Antonio!
380
00:34:01,880 --> 00:34:04,480
-We work on Monday too.
-Monday too?
381
00:34:05,680 --> 00:34:08,159
So, we clean up all of this.
382
00:34:08,360 --> 00:34:11,320
-On Monday we decide what next.
-And we're done.
383
00:34:11,480 --> 00:34:16,360
We'll finish for today.
On Monday we either do that part
384
00:34:16,559 --> 00:34:17,920
or around here.
385
00:34:18,079 --> 00:34:21,519
Seventeen and nineteen
both look good.
386
00:34:21,719 --> 00:34:24,119
I know, I know...
387
00:34:24,280 --> 00:34:27,840
The trouble is,
these are in a terrible state.
388
00:34:30,119 --> 00:34:32,039
This estate is like a bad affair.
389
00:34:32,320 --> 00:34:34,800
It treats you bad,
but you want more.
390
00:34:34,960 --> 00:34:38,679
But then when you see
how much oil it produces,
391
00:34:38,880 --> 00:34:41,280
you just can't give it up.
392
00:34:46,719 --> 00:34:48,199
It's 11:30am.
393
00:34:49,559 --> 00:34:51,519
Gets to the mill at 12:30pm.
394
00:34:51,840 --> 00:34:53,880
It can be here at 1:30pm.
395
00:34:55,280 --> 00:34:57,519
Let's pack this up because...
396
00:34:58,199 --> 00:35:00,519
The truck will drive over it.
397
00:35:00,719 --> 00:35:04,599
-They should pack it up.
-Let them, it's not mine.
398
00:35:07,119 --> 00:35:08,599
Delivery is now.
399
00:35:10,480 --> 00:35:12,760
These are the olives, okay?
400
00:35:13,639 --> 00:35:16,440
These olives are the real thing, huh?
401
00:35:16,760 --> 00:35:18,280
They're lovely.
402
00:35:19,559 --> 00:35:23,400
We managed to get a good calibre,
which is what we wanted.
403
00:35:23,800 --> 00:35:25,559
We're really happy.
404
00:35:25,840 --> 00:35:29,519
Antonio, he's on the nets.
405
00:35:39,480 --> 00:35:42,239
We finished?
Okay, off he goes.
406
00:35:43,719 --> 00:35:46,639
The aim is for the fruit
to reach the oil mill
407
00:35:46,800 --> 00:35:50,519
as soon as possible,
in not less than an hour
408
00:35:50,760 --> 00:35:54,440
and in optimum conditions.
That entails being careful.
409
00:35:54,599 --> 00:35:58,440
No stepping on nets,
no hitting the branches hard.
410
00:36:08,239 --> 00:36:10,440
Transporting the fruit intact
411
00:36:10,599 --> 00:36:14,000
means we can preserve those aromas
in the oil.
412
00:36:14,320 --> 00:36:17,840
It simply means caring for the fruit,
pampering it.
413
00:36:20,559 --> 00:36:24,480
If you process it immediately,
the product remains intact.
414
00:36:24,639 --> 00:36:28,320
What we do here is pick the olive
and extract the oil
415
00:36:28,480 --> 00:36:31,880
in less than an hour.
Zero time equals zero damage.
416
00:36:34,400 --> 00:36:38,719
Some mixers are refrigerated.
Oil mills are being refrigerated.
417
00:36:39,199 --> 00:36:41,800
In fact, picking is done at night.
418
00:36:45,559 --> 00:36:48,760
-We refrigerate everything.
-The whole process.
419
00:36:48,920 --> 00:36:53,519
Even the tubes
that the oil passes through.
420
00:36:53,679 --> 00:36:56,800
The grinding process...
The whole oil mill.
421
00:37:14,840 --> 00:37:18,159
We started with the coldroom.
This year we've decided
422
00:37:18,320 --> 00:37:21,280
to transport them
in 200kg containers,
423
00:37:21,440 --> 00:37:25,840
then in cold-storage trucks
so as not to break the cold chain.
424
00:37:26,000 --> 00:37:29,360
Like transporting fresh fish.
425
00:37:36,440 --> 00:37:40,039
Prawn omelette is a classic
of Andalusian cuisine.
426
00:37:40,559 --> 00:37:44,639
There is no comparison between
frying it with virgin olive oil
427
00:37:44,800 --> 00:37:47,679
and any standard vegetable oil.
428
00:37:50,079 --> 00:37:52,199
The key to a good omelette
429
00:37:52,519 --> 00:37:55,199
is that it must be fluffy.
430
00:37:55,519 --> 00:37:57,000
The shapes are irregular.
431
00:37:57,159 --> 00:38:00,960
The oil doesn't penetrate the batter,
it's easy to digest.
432
00:38:03,119 --> 00:38:06,519
Nowadays, fortunately,
we're much more aware.
433
00:38:06,760 --> 00:38:09,199
The most suitable oil
must be used
434
00:38:09,360 --> 00:38:13,119
for raw ingredients, cooked ones,
pickles, salads...
435
00:38:15,280 --> 00:38:16,920
Cooking with Hojiblanca
436
00:38:17,079 --> 00:38:20,000
is not the same as
Arbequina or Picual oil.
437
00:38:25,400 --> 00:38:29,719
All these Andalusian products
made with olive oil can be served
438
00:38:30,199 --> 00:38:33,119
with a manzanilla sherry, obviously.
439
00:38:34,079 --> 00:38:36,639
The harmony between these dishes
440
00:38:37,119 --> 00:38:38,559
and a manzanilla.
441
00:38:38,719 --> 00:38:42,639
There are hints of sea salt,
of biological ageing.
442
00:38:43,000 --> 00:38:44,840
The colour is even similar.
443
00:38:47,039 --> 00:38:49,039
When you think about how to use oil,
444
00:38:49,199 --> 00:38:51,840
it's a perfect gastronomic combination
with wine.
445
00:38:52,039 --> 00:38:54,440
This oil, extra virgin olive oil,
446
00:38:55,320 --> 00:38:58,960
what type of food would it go with?
Same as wine.
447
00:38:59,119 --> 00:39:03,719
It also makes people appreciate oil
as a product that is complex,
448
00:39:03,880 --> 00:39:06,519
diverse, with lots of nuances,
449
00:39:06,679 --> 00:39:08,760
and is an absolutely key element
450
00:39:08,960 --> 00:39:11,760
in how a meal or recipe
turns out, right?
451
00:39:11,880 --> 00:39:15,039
En enriching factor.
Rather than oil,
452
00:39:15,199 --> 00:39:17,480
think of it as a box of spices.
453
00:39:17,719 --> 00:39:21,840
The aromatic complexity enriches
what you have made.
454
00:39:22,039 --> 00:39:25,400
Any cuisine in the world
needs to use fats.
455
00:39:25,880 --> 00:39:28,559
The difference between them
456
00:39:28,719 --> 00:39:32,599
is the fat that each cuisine uses.
In the Mediterranean,
457
00:39:32,800 --> 00:39:36,719
olive oil is the preferred choice.
If not, it would not exist.
458
00:39:38,599 --> 00:39:40,679
I believe the Mediterranean diet
459
00:39:40,840 --> 00:39:44,280
is what goes on around the table
460
00:39:44,440 --> 00:39:47,239
and all the products on that table:
461
00:39:47,400 --> 00:39:49,679
seafood, fish, fruit, vegetables.
462
00:39:49,840 --> 00:39:52,920
All with a good drizzle
of extra virgin olive oil.
463
00:39:53,559 --> 00:39:57,880
We're going to make a very typical
Spanish dish: gazpacho.
464
00:39:58,719 --> 00:40:02,840
But incorporating something
important for our generation.
465
00:40:03,000 --> 00:40:04,960
A crusty bread sandwich.
466
00:40:05,119 --> 00:40:08,519
We'd get a chorizo, ham,
or cheese sandwich.
467
00:40:08,679 --> 00:40:13,320
My mum would make me a big
chorizo sandwich as a snack.
468
00:40:13,480 --> 00:40:16,639
So we decided to combine
these two things
469
00:40:16,880 --> 00:40:19,599
and make a gazpacho sandwich.
470
00:40:19,760 --> 00:40:22,280
Obviously, it's not standard bread.
471
00:40:22,480 --> 00:40:26,039
It's a light cloud bread,
made with water from the tomato.
472
00:40:26,239 --> 00:40:29,079
When it's in your mouth...
473
00:40:29,239 --> 00:40:31,840
it just dissolves.
It's magical.
474
00:40:32,079 --> 00:40:36,400
This is the garnish for the gazpacho.
It's a must in this case.
475
00:40:43,679 --> 00:40:44,719
Perfect.
476
00:40:45,440 --> 00:40:49,400
I had an iced cream of gazpacho
in the freezer.
477
00:40:49,920 --> 00:40:51,440
We'll add it on top.
478
00:40:53,320 --> 00:40:56,000
Gazpacho means
talking about olive oils.
479
00:40:56,159 --> 00:40:58,559
The type of oil we add
480
00:40:58,800 --> 00:41:02,840
will give it a particular aroma,
flavour, and make it special or not.
481
00:41:03,239 --> 00:41:06,880
We're using a Picual on this occasion.
482
00:41:08,679 --> 00:41:10,440
Looks like an ice-cream.
483
00:41:10,599 --> 00:41:13,119
It has bitter, piquant notes
484
00:41:13,480 --> 00:41:16,280
that work perfectly for us.
485
00:41:16,599 --> 00:41:19,079
Now we just slice it in two.
486
00:41:25,519 --> 00:41:27,159
Ready to eat.
487
00:41:28,360 --> 00:41:29,559
"Want to try it?"
488
00:41:29,760 --> 00:41:33,559
And they were like, "Taste oil?"
I told them to try it.
489
00:41:33,800 --> 00:41:37,199
"Why would I want to taste raw oil?"
490
00:41:38,239 --> 00:41:41,159
"How about smelling it?"
491
00:41:41,400 --> 00:41:43,760
"Okay, I'll smell it."
492
00:41:43,960 --> 00:41:46,239
They leaned over and smelled it.
493
00:41:46,480 --> 00:41:50,320
When they noticed those nuances,
those fruity notes...
494
00:41:50,760 --> 00:41:54,719
I'll say it again,
Picual has that grassy aroma...
495
00:41:54,880 --> 00:41:58,360
It evokes green grass, leaves,
496
00:41:58,519 --> 00:42:01,880
artichoke, green bananas...
497
00:42:02,320 --> 00:42:04,239
green almond skin...
Each one
498
00:42:04,519 --> 00:42:08,559
has its own distinctive aroma,
but they all blend together.
499
00:42:08,719 --> 00:42:11,960
"Ah, okay, I'll taste it then."
And they did.
500
00:42:12,119 --> 00:42:14,159
"Yes, yes," they said.
501
00:42:14,320 --> 00:42:19,000
"It's worth paying that price."
Sure, this takes a lot of hard work.
502
00:42:24,039 --> 00:42:27,280
Number 17, J13A, right.
503
00:42:31,000 --> 00:42:34,760
Number seven, 2018PP.
504
00:42:36,199 --> 00:42:38,000
They're all there.
505
00:42:38,320 --> 00:42:42,159
If the tasters would like
to take their places.
506
00:42:46,039 --> 00:42:50,480
The first year was rather sad,
seven oils had to be chosen.
507
00:42:50,639 --> 00:42:53,920
One of them was excellent,
two were so-so,
508
00:42:54,159 --> 00:42:55,719
and that was about it.
509
00:42:55,880 --> 00:42:57,719
The industry has become dynamic.
510
00:42:57,880 --> 00:43:01,679
There has been dramatic change
in the past 14 years.
511
00:43:01,840 --> 00:43:04,880
Now when a group of experts tastes
512
00:43:05,119 --> 00:43:10,679
ten, fifteen oils,
there are five or seven that are good.
513
00:43:11,199 --> 00:43:15,119
Last year there were 24 superb oils.
514
00:43:15,320 --> 00:43:18,360
So, if we talk about 14 years ago,
515
00:43:18,679 --> 00:43:23,360
there were probably not even
two early oils in the whole of Jaén.
516
00:43:23,639 --> 00:43:25,639
Today, 14 years later,
517
00:43:25,800 --> 00:43:29,039
on the first of November or earlier,
518
00:43:29,320 --> 00:43:32,400
sixty oils have been submitted.
519
00:43:32,559 --> 00:43:36,239
That means that the country's mindset
has changed.
520
00:43:37,679 --> 00:43:41,480
It was hard to taste 60 oils
that were all excellent.
521
00:43:41,639 --> 00:43:47,199
All the oils submitted are from
the start of the season and superb.
522
00:43:48,400 --> 00:43:51,480
We're also assessing
their complexity, harmony.
523
00:43:51,679 --> 00:43:54,559
That way we choose the very best ones.
524
00:43:55,480 --> 00:44:00,360
Awards help encourage you
to strive for quality.
525
00:44:00,679 --> 00:44:02,719
That's clear in the results.
526
00:44:03,000 --> 00:44:07,280
It's not just about the award,
you commit to making more,
527
00:44:07,440 --> 00:44:08,760
to keep producing quality.
528
00:44:08,920 --> 00:44:12,280
When we won
the Jaén Selección award, I cried.
529
00:44:12,719 --> 00:44:15,039
I cried, it was really...
530
00:44:15,840 --> 00:44:20,960
My boss looked at me as if to say
531
00:44:21,360 --> 00:44:22,960
it wasn't such a big deal.
532
00:44:23,119 --> 00:44:25,880
I was like,
"You've no idea what it means."
533
00:44:26,239 --> 00:44:28,079
It was a dream come true.
534
00:46:10,360 --> 00:46:13,800
This goes for the machine operators
and pickers:
535
00:46:14,920 --> 00:46:18,199
we'll try and damage the olive
as little as possible.
536
00:46:19,280 --> 00:46:20,599
All right?
537
00:46:20,920 --> 00:46:24,000
How do we do that?
By hitting the branches.
538
00:46:24,159 --> 00:46:27,000
The main branches.
Don't do it randomly.
539
00:46:27,159 --> 00:46:30,920
No, the blows must be slow and gentle.
540
00:46:31,079 --> 00:46:34,280
Does that mean we take longer?
It doesn't matter at all.
541
00:46:34,440 --> 00:46:38,440
So, we'll damage the olive
as little as possible, okay?
542
00:46:38,960 --> 00:46:40,599
Right, off to work.
543
00:47:38,719 --> 00:47:40,440
Picual evokes tomato.
544
00:47:40,639 --> 00:47:44,639
It conjures up the tomato,
from the smell of its leaves
545
00:47:44,800 --> 00:47:46,519
through to a ripe tomato.
546
00:47:46,800 --> 00:47:48,960
As it was an early harvest
in this case,
547
00:47:49,119 --> 00:47:51,320
if you smell it, the "nose"...
548
00:47:52,639 --> 00:47:54,679
the tomato is quite obvious.
549
00:47:55,599 --> 00:47:57,280
A very green tomato.
550
00:47:57,920 --> 00:47:58,920
That's right.
551
00:47:59,079 --> 00:48:01,199
Those green notes
emerge on the palate.
552
00:48:01,360 --> 00:48:04,159
The green notes are enhanced.
553
00:48:08,360 --> 00:48:11,719
The fruity note,
bitterness and piquancy underneath.
554
00:48:11,880 --> 00:48:14,920
They're harmonious.
So it's an elegant oil.
555
00:48:15,079 --> 00:48:15,960
Yes.
556
00:48:16,159 --> 00:48:19,599
It's as complex, fascinating
and varied as wine.
557
00:48:19,920 --> 00:48:21,400
That's how it is.
558
00:48:24,480 --> 00:48:29,119
When they ask me what I recommend
for a friend who makes great oil,
559
00:48:29,480 --> 00:48:33,000
I say start with a sommelier.
If they want to set a trend,
560
00:48:33,199 --> 00:48:36,000
if they want this to reach the top,
561
00:48:36,159 --> 00:48:40,000
they need sommeliers
who are qualified to judge it.
562
00:48:40,159 --> 00:48:42,480
And they make you passionate
563
00:48:42,639 --> 00:48:45,920
about wine, oil.
They tell you anecdotes.
564
00:48:46,079 --> 00:48:51,039
People who are influencers
in the world of wine,
565
00:48:51,199 --> 00:48:53,039
are not journalists,
they're sommeliers.
566
00:48:53,199 --> 00:48:57,039
The chef is not the one
who tells a diner what oil was used.
567
00:48:57,199 --> 00:48:59,719
Not the chef or the head buyer.
568
00:48:59,880 --> 00:49:01,760
The look on their faces
569
00:49:01,920 --> 00:49:05,320
when a waiter comes along
and uses words
570
00:49:05,559 --> 00:49:08,880
in a strange language,
like Arberquina,
571
00:49:09,199 --> 00:49:12,199
Picual, Royal...
What is he talking about?
572
00:49:12,480 --> 00:49:15,280
What is he on about?
I came here to eat.
573
00:49:52,039 --> 00:49:55,960
An emblematic dish in our cuisine
is pistachio mazamorra
574
00:49:56,119 --> 00:49:58,920
with extra virgin olive oil,
green apple,
575
00:49:59,119 --> 00:50:00,679
clove and fresh oregano.
576
00:50:00,840 --> 00:50:03,800
It's a fun dish
that we change each year.
577
00:50:03,960 --> 00:50:07,760
During the Al-Andalus era,
it was pine kernels and olive oil.
578
00:50:07,960 --> 00:50:11,840
This second year,
we're using Iranian pistachio,
579
00:50:12,480 --> 00:50:14,320
which goes nicely with olive oil.
580
00:50:27,119 --> 00:50:28,519
Wow, delicious.
581
00:50:37,800 --> 00:50:41,239
They're picked one by one
so as not to crush them.
582
00:50:42,119 --> 00:50:43,639
They're so small.
583
00:50:45,519 --> 00:50:47,800
They have to be picked with TLC.
584
00:50:48,199 --> 00:50:50,440
The black ones get squashed.
585
00:50:52,480 --> 00:50:54,440
You have to take your time.
586
00:50:59,159 --> 00:51:02,960
The wild olive is the ancestor
of the olive tree.
587
00:51:03,280 --> 00:51:05,679
It's an endemic species
588
00:51:05,960 --> 00:51:08,280
that existed before the Phoenicians
589
00:51:08,519 --> 00:51:12,400
introduced the olive tree
from the eastern Mediterranean.
590
00:51:12,559 --> 00:51:14,559
So, it's a prehistoric tree.
591
00:51:14,719 --> 00:51:18,159
This is a wild tree
that grows by itself.
592
00:51:22,440 --> 00:51:25,920
This tree is growing
from a crack in the rock.
593
00:51:26,800 --> 00:51:29,880
If we plant something here tomorrow,
it won't grow.
594
00:51:31,039 --> 00:51:33,639
And just look at this, unstoppable.
595
00:51:34,639 --> 00:51:39,119
Don't they say "Your skin is softer
than a wild olive"?
596
00:51:39,719 --> 00:51:41,079
The skin and stone.
597
00:51:41,239 --> 00:51:44,599
The oil is very intense, fruity.
598
00:51:44,880 --> 00:51:47,000
Our bodega produces a million litres.
599
00:51:47,559 --> 00:51:51,159
This year we'll produce
437 litres of wild olive oil.
600
00:51:51,480 --> 00:51:53,199
Very exclusive batches.
601
00:51:53,360 --> 00:51:56,840
It's to pay a tribute to our parents
602
00:51:57,119 --> 00:52:00,519
and to the wild olive,
the ancestor of the olive tree.
603
00:52:02,679 --> 00:52:06,280
The statue of Jorge Manrique
rises up in Segura de la Sierra.
604
00:52:06,920 --> 00:52:10,559
He is reading a book,
facing huge olive groves.
605
00:52:12,000 --> 00:52:14,000
A soldier and literary figure,
606
00:52:14,159 --> 00:52:18,320
he wrote verses questioning
what happened to things of the past,
607
00:52:18,920 --> 00:52:20,480
of what no longer exists.
608
00:52:20,639 --> 00:52:23,039
Let from its dream the soul awaken,
609
00:52:23,599 --> 00:52:25,800
And reason mark with open eyes
610
00:52:25,960 --> 00:52:29,480
How lightly life away is taken,
611
00:52:30,320 --> 00:52:32,480
How cometh Death
612
00:52:33,440 --> 00:52:35,159
in stealthy guise.
613
00:52:36,960 --> 00:52:39,320
What swiftness hath
the flight of pleasure
614
00:52:39,639 --> 00:52:42,239
That, once attained,
seems nothing more
615
00:52:42,880 --> 00:52:44,400
Than respite cold
616
00:52:45,480 --> 00:52:47,599
How fain is memory to measure
617
00:52:48,719 --> 00:52:52,639
Each latter day inferior
To those of old.
618
00:52:59,760 --> 00:53:02,320
In the second half
of the 15th century,
619
00:53:02,960 --> 00:53:06,079
the medieval view of the world
was fading.
620
00:53:08,159 --> 00:53:10,840
In Manrique's lifetime
there were raids,
621
00:53:11,000 --> 00:53:12,719
armour and verses.
622
00:53:13,119 --> 00:53:16,880
These mountains and trees
were etched in his memory.
623
00:53:50,440 --> 00:53:53,639
Producing is not enough,
we had to produce quality.
624
00:53:53,840 --> 00:53:57,639
Now we want to produce
quality and biodiversity.
625
00:54:00,360 --> 00:54:02,519
What happened is that subsidies
626
00:54:02,719 --> 00:54:06,320
are paid when you produce more.
627
00:54:06,880 --> 00:54:09,360
And that production fever
628
00:54:09,519 --> 00:54:12,679
encouraged practices
that didn't make sense,
629
00:54:12,840 --> 00:54:15,559
like removing vegetation
from the plots,
630
00:54:15,719 --> 00:54:18,440
the edges of ditches, gullies.
631
00:54:21,440 --> 00:54:25,639
All olive farmers agree
that biodiversity is marvellous.
632
00:54:25,800 --> 00:54:29,880
It's more pleasant to work in the fields
like this with so many birds,
633
00:54:30,400 --> 00:54:32,199
emblematic birds such as the owl.
634
00:54:32,639 --> 00:54:34,400
Every owl to its olive tree.
635
00:54:35,360 --> 00:54:38,960
Biodiversity improves the soil,
enhances fertility,
636
00:54:39,119 --> 00:54:40,480
keeps pests at bay...
637
00:54:40,639 --> 00:54:44,599
When properly implemented,
biodiversity can help
638
00:54:44,760 --> 00:54:47,480
to increase the yield
of an olive grove.
639
00:54:48,119 --> 00:54:49,920
We also plan to recover
640
00:54:50,079 --> 00:54:53,519
the natural vegetation cover
that was lost.
641
00:54:57,280 --> 00:55:00,639
We'll even reintroduce
species such as the barn owl
642
00:55:00,800 --> 00:55:03,119
by captive rearing.
643
00:55:06,000 --> 00:55:08,639
It's important to look back
644
00:55:08,800 --> 00:55:10,119
and try to
645
00:55:10,360 --> 00:55:14,159
embrace all the good things
we have now in olive groves,
646
00:55:14,320 --> 00:55:17,239
but also recover
the things we've lost
647
00:55:17,400 --> 00:55:20,119
from the traditional,
old olive groves,
648
00:55:20,400 --> 00:55:23,079
a melting pot of both natural
649
00:55:23,239 --> 00:55:26,159
and cultural assets in this context.
650
00:55:28,400 --> 00:55:31,679
I recall something
that José Antonio Muñoz Rojas said.
651
00:55:31,840 --> 00:55:36,239
The vegetation is like an oasis
of life among the olive groves.
652
00:55:40,360 --> 00:55:43,159
This is the shell of the spider crab.
653
00:55:45,159 --> 00:55:46,880
We'll pour in salmorejo.
654
00:55:55,440 --> 00:55:58,159
We top it off
with the spider crab meat.
655
00:56:04,480 --> 00:56:07,239
We're adding a few thinly sliced
656
00:56:07,800 --> 00:56:11,119
pieces of raw mini courgette.
657
00:56:11,280 --> 00:56:14,840
Apart from the fact that it looks
658
00:56:15,519 --> 00:56:17,119
pleasing to the eye,
659
00:56:17,760 --> 00:56:21,559
it gives the appearance of texture.
660
00:56:25,559 --> 00:56:27,440
Finally, some herbs.
661
00:56:28,800 --> 00:56:31,639
Especially where the crab meat is.
662
00:56:33,559 --> 00:56:36,719
The salmorejo generally has
a lot of olive oil.
663
00:56:36,880 --> 00:56:39,840
We like drizzling some on at the end.
664
00:56:40,440 --> 00:56:45,199
We should feel privileged to have
something like this in our country.
665
00:56:45,400 --> 00:56:48,119
It makes up part of your life,
your culture.
666
00:56:48,280 --> 00:56:50,760
When you become a professional chef
667
00:56:50,920 --> 00:56:54,760
that is multiplied a thousand times,
almost to infinity.
668
00:56:55,000 --> 00:56:58,159
It's in our genes.
Oil has always been
669
00:56:58,320 --> 00:57:00,039
part of our cuisine.
670
00:57:00,719 --> 00:57:03,559
When you scratch away a bit
671
00:57:03,719 --> 00:57:05,920
you realise
how much ignorance there is
672
00:57:06,079 --> 00:57:08,360
about something
so quintessentially ours.
673
00:57:08,519 --> 00:57:11,800
I've been asked what trees
produce green olives
674
00:57:11,960 --> 00:57:15,360
and what tree produces the black one.
675
00:57:15,840 --> 00:57:18,840
I'm talking about normal people.
676
00:57:19,159 --> 00:57:21,920
When you explain that it's a fruit
677
00:57:22,360 --> 00:57:24,840
that gradually changes colour
678
00:57:25,000 --> 00:57:28,000
throughout October, November
and December,
679
00:57:28,719 --> 00:57:31,320
they start thinking about it.
680
00:57:31,480 --> 00:57:34,239
You have to always focus
on fruit, fruit, fruit.
681
00:57:34,440 --> 00:57:37,719
It's a juice.
All we do at the oil mill...
682
00:57:37,880 --> 00:57:39,679
It's a factory for making juice.
683
00:57:39,840 --> 00:57:42,599
We consume olive juice.
That's it.
684
00:58:27,239 --> 00:58:29,719
I started as an employee in 2012.
685
00:58:29,960 --> 00:58:33,760
I had no idea about an oil mill.
I often got lost
686
00:58:33,920 --> 00:58:37,880
among all these polyphenols,
machines and slip speeds.
687
00:58:38,039 --> 00:58:41,880
I decided to train.
The company backed me from day one.
688
00:58:42,440 --> 00:58:45,599
I started doing tasting courses,
general training.
689
00:58:45,800 --> 00:58:47,760
I never thought I'd get this far:
690
00:58:47,920 --> 00:58:52,480
to work at this company
and have a job that satisfies me.
691
00:58:52,679 --> 00:58:57,400
We had some Japanese visitors
and I said, "I love my work."
692
00:58:57,559 --> 00:58:59,480
I love what I do.
693
00:58:59,639 --> 00:59:02,519
When I was little,
I remember playing
694
00:59:02,960 --> 00:59:07,039
among piles of dry olive press-cake.
695
00:59:07,599 --> 00:59:09,199
That's etched in my memory.
696
00:59:10,239 --> 00:59:13,199
The smell of the olive, the oil.
697
00:59:13,599 --> 00:59:16,519
Being it touch with great people
from Jaén.
698
00:59:19,119 --> 00:59:21,360
I thought it was a pity that...
699
00:59:21,880 --> 00:59:25,559
the oil mill wasn't evolving,
I wanted to work in a cooperative.
700
00:59:27,320 --> 00:59:31,159
We bought a machine
for personal use about ten years ago.
701
00:59:31,320 --> 00:59:35,119
We gave the oil to friends to try
and they said:
702
00:59:35,360 --> 00:59:40,079
I don't get this sort of oil
in Madrid, why not start selling it?
703
00:59:41,039 --> 00:59:45,320
One of our ancestors
had a plot of olive trees.
704
00:59:45,480 --> 00:59:47,880
Twelve generations later,
705
00:59:48,199 --> 00:59:52,360
we're proud to tend to the grove
where they worked.
706
00:59:52,599 --> 00:59:55,880
If they hadn't called me here,
I would have still carried on.
707
00:59:56,039 --> 00:59:58,679
I wanted to work in a coop.
708
01:00:00,440 --> 01:00:03,840
I'd like to have studied
agricultural engineering.
709
01:00:04,000 --> 01:00:07,000
My father is an agronomist
and I like the countryside.
710
01:00:07,159 --> 01:00:10,519
But he told me it was a man's world
711
01:00:10,920 --> 01:00:13,440
and I should study something else.
712
01:00:13,840 --> 01:00:17,159
In the end,
a leopard doesn't change its spots!
713
01:00:19,199 --> 01:00:22,639
I used to hang out here
when I was four or five.
714
01:00:23,039 --> 01:00:26,159
Due to personal reasons,
I started working here
715
01:00:26,360 --> 01:00:28,639
and it has been 40 years now.
716
01:00:28,880 --> 01:00:31,800
This is the only job I've ever done.
717
01:00:34,119 --> 01:00:36,280
I was interested in this as a kid.
718
01:00:36,440 --> 01:00:38,880
My son is 28 now,
719
01:00:39,199 --> 01:00:43,440
but I guess he's more like his mother.
720
01:00:43,719 --> 01:00:46,599
This is not his thing.
He didn't take after me.
721
01:00:49,360 --> 01:00:51,320
For me, this coop...
722
01:00:51,800 --> 01:00:53,639
It was love at first sight!
723
01:00:56,840 --> 01:01:01,559
Last year, for example, we produced
90% extra virgin olive oil.
724
01:01:02,239 --> 01:01:04,599
In a coop
with one thousand associates,
725
01:01:04,880 --> 01:01:07,199
small and medium-sized producers,
726
01:01:07,360 --> 01:01:11,880
it's significant to have reached
that sort of level of crop.
727
01:01:12,400 --> 01:01:16,960
It's about clearly defining your goals
and working towards them.
728
01:01:20,039 --> 01:01:22,760
We call a meeting
for all the associates.
729
01:01:22,960 --> 01:01:26,280
They're amazed
when they taste their oil.
730
01:01:26,440 --> 01:01:29,599
They're keen to improve it
the following year.
731
01:01:30,079 --> 01:01:34,760
That's sort of how we work
together with our associates.
732
01:01:35,840 --> 01:01:39,800
Each of our farmers,
each of our associates,
733
01:01:40,000 --> 01:01:42,159
is paid for the quality of their crop.
734
01:01:42,519 --> 01:01:46,599
Those who bring us Premium
get paid that rate.
735
01:01:46,840 --> 01:01:50,159
If it's Extra Plus,
the rate is for that quality.
736
01:01:50,639 --> 01:01:53,679
Those who bring us
olives picked off the ground,
737
01:01:53,920 --> 01:01:56,480
which is increasingly less the case,
738
01:01:56,639 --> 01:01:58,719
are paid that rate.
739
01:01:58,880 --> 01:02:00,400
You try and tell them
740
01:02:00,880 --> 01:02:04,320
to wait a little,
that it's still too early,
741
01:02:04,480 --> 01:02:08,480
or not to use an insecticide
because there are no pests,
742
01:02:08,719 --> 01:02:10,320
or to explain to them
743
01:02:10,519 --> 01:02:13,719
that the tree won't absorb
a certain fertilizer,
744
01:02:13,880 --> 01:02:15,360
that it's no good...
745
01:02:15,519 --> 01:02:18,559
It's not easy.
They have to gradually realise it.
746
01:02:18,719 --> 01:02:22,360
The land is not governed
by a set calendar.
747
01:02:22,519 --> 01:02:25,320
They're used to doing things
748
01:02:25,480 --> 01:02:29,440
according to saints' days
or whatever they learned.
749
01:02:36,360 --> 01:02:39,639
St. John of the Cross
left his mark on the land of Jaén.
750
01:02:43,400 --> 01:02:47,840
In Beas de Segura convent,
he was the nuns' spiritual confessor.
751
01:02:49,599 --> 01:02:53,719
He arrived on Saturdays,
returning to El Calvario on Mondays,
752
01:02:53,960 --> 01:02:55,760
two miles away.
753
01:03:02,159 --> 01:03:04,679
In the foothills of the Segura range,
754
01:03:05,039 --> 01:03:07,880
he added verses
to The Spiritual Canticle,
755
01:03:08,039 --> 01:03:10,400
a poem he began writing in Toledo.
756
01:03:21,679 --> 01:03:24,719
St. John of the Cross left the nuns
757
01:03:25,079 --> 01:03:29,320
bits of paper with pieces of advice
they zealously guarded.
758
01:03:34,239 --> 01:03:37,880
When a nun asked where
he found such beautiful words,
759
01:03:38,039 --> 01:03:39,360
he replied:
760
01:03:41,400 --> 01:03:43,679
"Sometimes God gave them to me,
761
01:03:45,960 --> 01:03:48,679
and other times, I searched for them."
762
01:03:52,159 --> 01:03:54,480
The manuscript is preserved
in Andújar:
763
01:03:54,639 --> 01:03:56,159
Sayings of Light and Love,
764
01:03:56,440 --> 01:04:00,000
a series of short maxims
for his disciples.
765
01:04:14,800 --> 01:04:18,519
Juan of the Cross
arrived in Baeza in 1579.
766
01:04:19,320 --> 01:04:21,840
Most of Europe was at war.
767
01:04:22,000 --> 01:04:24,719
Miguel de Cervantes
was imprisoned in Algeria,
768
01:04:24,880 --> 01:04:27,800
from where he unsuccessfully tried
to flee.
769
01:04:33,480 --> 01:04:35,519
In Baeza, John of the Cross
770
01:04:35,719 --> 01:04:38,280
ran a school for the Carmelite Order
771
01:04:38,599 --> 01:04:43,039
that had close ties with the famous
university of the time.
772
01:04:49,079 --> 01:04:51,840
John of the Cross fought
to remodel the Carmelites,
773
01:04:52,159 --> 01:04:54,199
while the Barefoot Carmelites
774
01:04:54,360 --> 01:04:56,920
had their differences with the Order.
775
01:05:00,920 --> 01:05:04,360
He also frequently visited
La Peñuela monastery,
776
01:05:04,519 --> 01:05:07,079
currently in the town of La Carolina.
777
01:05:15,519 --> 01:05:18,480
From here, he would depart for Úbeda.
778
01:05:26,159 --> 01:05:28,920
He entered St. Michael's monastery
779
01:05:29,480 --> 01:05:32,800
on September 28, 1591.
780
01:05:37,760 --> 01:05:41,239
He was already ill
with what he called "mild fever".
781
01:05:43,960 --> 01:05:46,199
It was more serious than that.
782
01:05:52,000 --> 01:05:55,440
He spent his last autumn
in this monastery in Úbeda,
783
01:05:55,679 --> 01:05:58,360
where he is remembered with devotion.
784
01:06:02,760 --> 01:06:05,360
A museum is named after him.
785
01:06:13,039 --> 01:06:17,400
He was buried in the chapel
next to the monastery.
786
01:06:20,519 --> 01:06:24,159
There remained the words
of the man who searched for silence.
787
01:06:35,599 --> 01:06:39,840
The mysterious silence of stones
that have witnessed so much.
788
01:06:42,360 --> 01:06:44,960
Life goes on in the streets of Úbeda.
789
01:06:45,280 --> 01:06:47,800
Fashions and lineages are renewed.
790
01:07:21,440 --> 01:07:23,440
The purpose of pruning is renewal
791
01:07:23,599 --> 01:07:27,880
and ensuring not much light gets in.
That's the purpose.
792
01:07:28,320 --> 01:07:30,320
The tree needs to regenerate.
793
01:07:30,480 --> 01:07:32,880
That's why we cut off branches.
794
01:07:33,280 --> 01:07:36,599
The cuts mustn't be exposed
to much sunlight.
795
01:07:43,880 --> 01:07:47,039
This provides space
for the tree to grow.
796
01:07:47,199 --> 01:07:51,800
The next time it's pruned,
this branch will be cut off
797
01:07:52,039 --> 01:07:54,519
so this grows bigger.
When it does,
798
01:07:54,679 --> 01:07:57,039
this branch will be trimmed here.
799
01:07:57,280 --> 01:07:59,719
That way, new sprouts always emerge.
800
01:08:00,239 --> 01:08:02,079
That's the purpose of pruning.
801
01:08:02,960 --> 01:08:06,480
So the olive tree regenerates.
Make sure it's never old.
802
01:08:06,639 --> 01:08:08,719
Always renewed.
803
01:08:11,679 --> 01:08:13,840
Our tasting menu begins
804
01:08:14,039 --> 01:08:18,159
with an olive oil tasting,
but a different type of one.
805
01:08:21,000 --> 01:08:23,880
When I was a kid,
I cut an orange in two
806
01:08:24,039 --> 01:08:26,319
and added olive oil
and some salt.
807
01:08:26,560 --> 01:08:30,039
And in memory of that snack
my grandma made,
808
01:08:30,279 --> 01:08:34,279
I decided this would be our last part
of snacks and oil tasting.
809
01:08:34,760 --> 01:08:37,560
We'll give the snack a modern touch.
810
01:08:37,720 --> 01:08:41,119
On this occasion,
the oil is in a siphon with gas.
811
01:08:41,479 --> 01:08:45,720
We turn it into powder by using
liquid nitrogen.
812
01:08:45,880 --> 01:08:50,840
The longer the oil is in the nitrogen
and the more gas pressure we apply,
813
01:08:51,640 --> 01:08:54,600
the smoother and more powdery
this will be.
814
01:08:54,760 --> 01:08:57,199
This amazes people.
815
01:08:57,439 --> 01:08:59,960
It's a new experience with oil olive.
816
01:09:00,119 --> 01:09:05,119
It's magical to see how the acidic
and sweet flavours of the fruit
817
01:09:05,399 --> 01:09:09,119
blend perfectly with olive oil.
818
01:09:09,359 --> 01:09:11,720
But our grandparents
already knew that.
819
01:09:11,880 --> 01:09:15,439
Obviously,
it's another way of doing it.
820
01:09:15,600 --> 01:09:17,560
If my grandma could see me, right?
821
01:09:19,560 --> 01:09:21,520
This doesn't smell, does it?
822
01:09:21,680 --> 01:09:24,640
Warm it up properly,
because it does smell.
823
01:09:25,640 --> 01:09:27,479
It needs warming up.
824
01:09:29,079 --> 01:09:31,119
The first thing is to heat up that cup.
825
01:09:33,279 --> 01:09:35,439
And then we move on
to the retronasal phase.
826
01:09:35,720 --> 01:09:37,079
We taste it again,
827
01:09:37,399 --> 01:09:39,079
we move it from front to back
828
01:09:39,239 --> 01:09:40,840
and we see indirectly
829
01:09:40,960 --> 01:09:42,279
the aroma it reminds us of.
830
01:09:42,640 --> 01:09:45,039
As long as they are positive
it wll be an extra virgin oil.
831
01:09:45,960 --> 01:09:49,399
-Palate.
-The others are superb on the palate.
832
01:09:50,000 --> 01:09:52,640
-This one is a bit so-so.
-Yes.
833
01:09:52,880 --> 01:09:54,439
I agree as well.
834
01:09:54,680 --> 01:09:58,000
-The SV.
-The SV, right?
835
01:09:58,159 --> 01:10:01,159
When I smell it, I get the feeling
836
01:10:01,439 --> 01:10:04,479
-it's different to the others.
-How so?
837
01:10:04,960 --> 01:10:06,439
I don't like it.
838
01:10:07,840 --> 01:10:10,279
It's obviously on a different level.
839
01:10:11,399 --> 01:10:16,319
A bit out of balance as far as
bitterness and piquancy are concerned.
840
01:10:20,560 --> 01:10:25,119
But when it comes to fruity notes,
23-18 has more than 13A.
841
01:10:25,279 --> 01:10:28,720
I love that smooth, rounded aroma.
842
01:10:30,880 --> 01:10:33,079
It's very grassy, isn't it?
843
01:10:34,600 --> 01:10:38,399
More grass than leaves.
It's very different from Picual.
844
01:10:38,680 --> 01:10:40,439
Shall we give a mark to 13A?
845
01:10:40,880 --> 01:10:42,680
Don't we rule out two?
846
01:10:42,880 --> 01:10:46,600
Yes, you rule out two,
then you give final marks.
847
01:11:01,560 --> 01:11:03,039
I feel so nervous.
848
01:11:05,720 --> 01:11:06,720
A draw.
849
01:11:06,880 --> 01:11:08,800
-A draw.
-I don't believe it.
850
01:11:11,680 --> 01:11:14,319
Getting through depends
on very little.
851
01:11:14,640 --> 01:11:17,800
I guess we'll win one day
with a tenth of a point more!
852
01:11:18,079 --> 01:11:22,560
Clearly there is a difference
of two-tenths of a point.
853
01:11:25,159 --> 01:11:29,079
I think that it's important
to stress that difference.
854
01:11:29,439 --> 01:11:31,720
Did we win Jaén Selección?
855
01:11:32,279 --> 01:11:36,119
We know our oil
is among the best this year.
856
01:11:36,520 --> 01:11:40,399
We want to win. Same as every year.
We look forward to it.
857
01:11:40,680 --> 01:11:43,359
I think that we're among the best.
858
01:11:43,520 --> 01:11:45,640
We're completely committed.
859
01:11:45,840 --> 01:11:48,720
If you love doing something, it shows.
860
01:11:48,920 --> 01:11:51,760
If we don't win, fine.
If we do, perfect.
861
01:11:51,920 --> 01:11:54,279
Awards are important,
but not essential.
862
01:11:54,520 --> 01:11:57,560
The important thing
is that the consumer buys it again.
863
01:11:57,720 --> 01:12:00,279
You'd get the award
and go home.
864
01:12:00,439 --> 01:12:03,079
I got the award? Great.
865
01:12:03,239 --> 01:12:06,920
Now that award is linked
to a series of activities,
866
01:12:07,079 --> 01:12:11,199
advertising, value-added content,
867
01:12:11,359 --> 01:12:13,800
that makes it
even more appealing.
868
01:12:14,199 --> 01:12:17,199
Particularly for those of us
who export
869
01:12:17,359 --> 01:12:20,039
to the rest of Spain or abroad.
870
01:13:35,720 --> 01:13:39,640
When María and I decided
to go ahead with the oil mill,
871
01:13:39,960 --> 01:13:41,760
there were some hard times,
872
01:13:41,920 --> 01:13:44,479
but we thought image was important
873
01:13:45,199 --> 01:13:48,720
and a solid brand name.
We didn't even have one.
874
01:13:49,239 --> 01:13:51,000
So we spoke to Isabel Cabello.
875
01:13:51,159 --> 01:13:54,479
The label they had in mind
was Trujal de la loma.
876
01:13:54,640 --> 01:13:56,800
I said we wouldn't use it.
877
01:13:56,960 --> 01:13:59,199
I said it loud and clear.
878
01:13:59,359 --> 01:14:02,960
When I saw the name of the farmhouse
879
01:14:03,119 --> 01:14:05,880
and that it was from the 17th century
880
01:14:06,199 --> 01:14:09,680
and it had historical interest,
we ruled out the first choice.
881
01:14:09,840 --> 01:14:11,319
It was a good move.
882
01:14:13,520 --> 01:14:15,359
Isabel was adamant.
883
01:14:15,560 --> 01:14:19,159
Your main brand, your early harvest,
will feature a poppy.
884
01:14:19,359 --> 01:14:22,600
The poppy is a survivor
in the countryside.
885
01:14:22,760 --> 01:14:25,039
It grows on fertile land.
886
01:14:25,199 --> 01:14:28,079
Land where chemical products
are not used.
887
01:14:28,399 --> 01:14:30,520
It was groundbreaking at the time.
888
01:14:30,680 --> 01:14:32,680
Now everyone wants flowers.
889
01:14:32,840 --> 01:14:36,119
I always say that the olive tree
is in the bottle.
890
01:14:36,279 --> 01:14:38,680
Why put it on the label?
891
01:14:40,159 --> 01:14:42,439
Name of an oil merchant? No idea.
892
01:14:43,039 --> 01:14:47,359
Name of a bodega?
If you go out on the street...
893
01:14:47,760 --> 01:14:49,439
Everyone knows a name.
894
01:14:49,600 --> 01:14:54,000
Trouble is, they'll tell you the name
of disgusting oils!
895
01:14:54,680 --> 01:14:56,479
Whereas if you go and say:
896
01:14:56,680 --> 01:14:59,039
"Know any top Spanish wine?"
897
01:14:59,199 --> 01:15:02,039
"What is regarded
as Spain's best wine?"
898
01:15:02,199 --> 01:15:05,000
Everyone will say Vega Sicilia.
Perhaps Pingus.
899
01:15:05,159 --> 01:15:08,239
Yes, but how long did it take
to build up that name?
900
01:15:08,399 --> 01:15:10,439
-Years.
-150 years.
901
01:15:10,880 --> 01:15:13,720
When was extra virgin olive oil
902
01:15:13,920 --> 01:15:16,920
first sold in glass bottles?
903
01:15:17,119 --> 01:15:18,720
In the late 80s.
904
01:15:19,000 --> 01:15:21,439
What was the first one from Jaén?
905
01:15:22,920 --> 01:15:26,520
That was inconceivable 20 years ago,
inconceivable.
906
01:15:26,680 --> 01:15:29,640
If you talked about
a lacquered, painted bottle,
907
01:15:29,800 --> 01:15:33,079
they'd say you were mad.
You use plastic.
908
01:15:33,439 --> 01:15:36,319
Saying "Pet"
was already modern!
909
01:15:39,000 --> 01:15:41,279
I like people to try
910
01:15:41,439 --> 01:15:44,640
the product with and without oil.
911
01:15:45,880 --> 01:15:49,279
The basic ingredient that links
all the gazpachos
912
01:15:49,439 --> 01:15:52,760
such as mazamorra or ajoblanco,
913
01:15:53,119 --> 01:15:56,079
or our pipirrana,
everything that...
914
01:15:57,199 --> 01:15:59,319
those dishes have in common
915
01:15:59,479 --> 01:16:02,840
and that has the same roots,
is bread and oil.
916
01:16:03,600 --> 01:16:07,680
The use of day-old, stale bread.
917
01:16:08,119 --> 01:16:11,960
They moistened it
with a bit of oil, water and vinegar.
918
01:16:13,880 --> 01:16:15,439
That was a gazpacho.
919
01:16:16,640 --> 01:16:19,600
A typical ajoblanco,
chilled garlic soup, with almonds.
920
01:16:19,760 --> 01:16:23,359
Here we not only add a bit of coconut,
921
01:16:23,520 --> 01:16:26,680
we make a crushed ice mix
of pineapple and basil leaves
922
01:16:26,840 --> 01:16:28,439
that we grate and serve.
923
01:16:28,920 --> 01:16:30,800
A very tangy, fresh dish.
924
01:16:31,000 --> 01:16:32,439
Our signature dish.
925
01:16:38,960 --> 01:16:41,319
It's food,
but also a way of preserving.
926
01:16:41,479 --> 01:16:44,680
From preserves in olive oil
through to marinades.
927
01:16:44,840 --> 01:16:46,479
It's everything.
928
01:16:46,640 --> 01:16:49,119
Olive oil is sustenance.
929
01:16:49,279 --> 01:16:52,960
How long have we known
that it's a super food?
930
01:16:54,039 --> 01:16:58,600
Since ancient times, a mixture
of intuition and experimentation.
931
01:16:58,920 --> 01:17:03,199
Modern science has proved
that what our ancestors
932
01:17:03,560 --> 01:17:06,399
already knew by experimenting
933
01:17:06,800 --> 01:17:10,439
was actually on the right track.
934
01:17:10,640 --> 01:17:12,119
But olive oil was lucky,
935
01:17:12,279 --> 01:17:15,600
because some foods
were great at first, then awful.
936
01:17:15,760 --> 01:17:17,560
Now they are, now they aren't.
937
01:17:17,720 --> 01:17:20,239
In Spain, after the '60s,
938
01:17:20,399 --> 01:17:23,880
the US attempted to introduce
sunflower seed oil.
939
01:17:24,079 --> 01:17:27,119
As always, they attacked
940
01:17:27,279 --> 01:17:30,399
their main rival product.
941
01:17:31,720 --> 01:17:34,319
The US agitprop campaign
942
01:17:34,479 --> 01:17:38,760
included oil, oily fish,
the staples of the Mediterranean diet.
943
01:17:39,279 --> 01:17:41,239
Omega 3 was Satan.
944
01:17:41,399 --> 01:17:43,960
I have cholesterol,
I can't eat sardines.
945
01:17:44,119 --> 01:17:46,239
This new approach to fats,
946
01:17:46,399 --> 01:17:50,199
by that I mean fats in oily fish
or olive oil,
947
01:17:50,439 --> 01:17:54,199
is a modern phenomenon
we have science to thank for.
948
01:17:59,720 --> 01:18:02,279
Virgin olive oils have a composition
949
01:18:02,439 --> 01:18:07,000
of which roughly 98%
is made up of fatty acids.
950
01:18:07,279 --> 01:18:10,359
A very small amount, however,
about 2%,
951
01:18:10,680 --> 01:18:15,039
is composed of up to 250 components
as far as we know today.
952
01:18:15,359 --> 01:18:18,159
But these are what give
virgin olive oil
953
01:18:18,319 --> 01:18:20,479
its colour, taste and smell.
954
01:18:20,640 --> 01:18:25,199
They give oil that plus factor
that other fats do not have.
955
01:18:25,359 --> 01:18:27,239
What we are studying is
956
01:18:27,399 --> 01:18:29,960
the effect
these minority compounds have
957
01:18:30,239 --> 01:18:34,439
and why they can help prevent
cardiovascular disease
958
01:18:34,600 --> 01:18:36,640
and certain types of cancer.
959
01:18:39,680 --> 01:18:42,520
I had cancer
and I was fortunate enough
960
01:18:42,720 --> 01:18:47,199
to be able to recover at a family farm
we have in Jaén.
961
01:18:47,359 --> 01:18:49,239
The property is in olive groves.
962
01:18:49,399 --> 01:18:51,640
I got hooked
on extra virgin olive oil!
963
01:18:52,079 --> 01:18:55,239
I delved into the world of olive oil.
964
01:18:55,399 --> 01:18:57,600
When I recovered, I wanted to help,
965
01:18:57,800 --> 01:19:02,199
to somehow do my part
in the fight against cancer.
966
01:19:02,359 --> 01:19:06,000
What better way than with
a healthy product like this?
967
01:19:06,159 --> 01:19:09,600
Eating virgin olive oil regularly
968
01:19:09,880 --> 01:19:12,079
can reduce by up to 30%
969
01:19:12,279 --> 01:19:14,840
the incidence of heart attacks, ictus,
970
01:19:15,000 --> 01:19:17,760
and death due to
cardiovascular issues.
971
01:19:18,119 --> 01:19:20,600
Thirty per cent is an awful lot.
972
01:19:20,760 --> 01:19:25,319
It's a very high percentage
that some drugs can't even achieve.
973
01:19:26,000 --> 01:19:29,279
Why is this oil better than others?
974
01:19:29,439 --> 01:19:32,039
Because it has minority compounds
975
01:19:32,319 --> 01:19:34,560
that make it bitter and piquant.
976
01:19:34,840 --> 01:19:37,399
It's packed with nutritional value.
977
01:19:37,600 --> 01:19:39,439
It's great for your health.
978
01:19:40,479 --> 01:19:42,960
I'm lucky.
979
01:19:43,840 --> 01:19:46,760
All my grandparents
lived to be over 90!
980
01:19:46,920 --> 01:19:49,279
It's an antioxidant, pure and simple.
981
01:19:53,239 --> 01:19:56,439
Japanese people like to eat healthily.
982
01:19:57,359 --> 01:20:00,119
So they look for healthy products.
983
01:20:00,880 --> 01:20:04,239
In that respect,
extra virgin olive oil
984
01:20:04,399 --> 01:20:06,279
ticks all the boxes.
985
01:20:10,399 --> 01:20:12,520
A bottle of olive oil in Tokyo
986
01:20:12,680 --> 01:20:14,159
is not cheap at all.
987
01:20:14,720 --> 01:20:17,840
I saw people dipping their bread
in a quarter of a litre.
988
01:20:18,079 --> 01:20:20,319
Their cuisine is light and subtle
989
01:20:20,520 --> 01:20:22,399
with hardly any fats.
990
01:20:23,199 --> 01:20:26,399
Culturally, they don't use it
on a daily basis,
991
01:20:26,800 --> 01:20:30,279
but as a special quality product,
992
01:20:30,439 --> 01:20:32,359
and particularly as a healthy one...
993
01:20:34,399 --> 01:20:37,399
They find it healthy,
very appealing.
994
01:20:37,640 --> 01:20:39,720
Olive oil gets them hooked.
995
01:20:43,560 --> 01:20:47,920
Extremely green.
It has a piquant aftertaste,
996
01:20:48,199 --> 01:20:50,640
but it's not harsh.
997
01:20:50,920 --> 01:20:52,720
It's very gentle,
998
01:20:52,880 --> 01:20:55,800
but the aromas persist on the palate.
999
01:20:55,960 --> 01:20:59,000
It always reminds me
1000
01:20:59,479 --> 01:21:02,680
of the olive groves and nature.
1001
01:21:03,159 --> 01:21:06,000
I think that it's fundamental.
1002
01:21:10,960 --> 01:21:14,439
It's a beautiful, stout and leafy tree
1003
01:21:14,560 --> 01:21:18,359
with a splendid crown
and a unique steel-grey colour,
1004
01:21:18,479 --> 01:21:20,359
that silvery sheen
on the underside of the leaf
1005
01:21:20,479 --> 01:21:23,439
is one of the wonders
of nature and aesthetics.
1006
01:21:23,560 --> 01:21:27,439
It's good to take into consideration
that it's a beautiful tree.
1007
01:21:29,479 --> 01:21:31,680
Farm land has to be looked after,
1008
01:21:31,800 --> 01:21:33,760
farm land has to be loved.
1009
01:21:34,159 --> 01:21:39,039
Farm land is easy to cultivate,
just a little care will show its fruits.
1010
01:21:39,159 --> 01:21:42,319
And if it rains, all the better.
1011
01:21:45,000 --> 01:21:47,079
It's a nesting ground for insects,
1012
01:21:47,640 --> 01:21:49,279
this one is called a barrenillo.
1013
01:21:49,399 --> 01:21:51,720
It's a small beetle.
1014
01:21:52,479 --> 01:21:54,680
It's organic,
so we can't use insecticides.
1015
01:21:56,439 --> 01:22:00,399
All we do is grind it,
we pile up the branches.
1016
01:22:01,520 --> 01:22:05,239
That's where insects lay their eggs,
so you destroy the branches.
1017
01:22:05,600 --> 01:22:08,079
You destroy everything,
including the larvae.
1018
01:22:08,239 --> 01:22:11,800
The eggs disappear,
they don't have the right conditions.
1019
01:22:16,479 --> 01:22:19,520
Before, when we used herbicide,
1020
01:22:20,000 --> 01:22:22,319
this is what happened due to erosion.
1021
01:22:23,199 --> 01:22:25,720
This is stony ground,
the soil has been washed away,
1022
01:22:25,880 --> 01:22:28,720
the rain washes it away
because there's no grass.
1023
01:22:28,840 --> 01:22:31,600
So we're gradually regenerating the land.
1024
01:22:32,680 --> 01:22:37,960
The oil we produce is different if we let
the grass grow rather than on bare ground.
1025
01:22:38,119 --> 01:22:40,640
And when it rains,
the soil retains the humidity.
1026
01:22:41,560 --> 01:22:45,600
The leading role in producing oil
is nature.
1027
01:22:45,760 --> 01:22:49,920
Letting the grass
and the native flora grow
1028
01:22:50,119 --> 01:22:54,199
for both crop development
and oil production.
1029
01:22:55,319 --> 01:22:58,319
As I've gradually shifted
to more natural farming,
1030
01:22:58,520 --> 01:23:01,399
I've gradually produced more complex oil,
1031
01:23:01,720 --> 01:23:04,760
more aromatic oil,
more balanced even.
1032
01:23:05,159 --> 01:23:06,720
We believe, romantically,
1033
01:23:06,840 --> 01:23:10,880
that the aroma of the grass
and the flowers is passed on to the oil.
1034
01:23:11,159 --> 01:23:14,600
The ladybird has its role to play,
lizards, ladybirds...
1035
01:23:15,399 --> 01:23:19,880
I think they all influence in the oil
having certain characteristics or others.
1036
01:23:24,359 --> 01:23:28,079
My father used to say,
"Paco, you guys are crazy."
1037
01:23:28,960 --> 01:23:31,800
And in fact,
many people think we are.
1038
01:23:32,039 --> 01:23:34,960
Fortunately, though,
half the province has gone crazy.
1039
01:23:35,119 --> 01:23:38,880
And we'll do the same
with the other half,
1040
01:23:39,039 --> 01:23:43,520
because we know what our ambitions are
and what we must do.
1041
01:23:44,520 --> 01:23:47,159
The Jaén Selección award this year,
1042
01:23:47,359 --> 01:23:49,319
in alphabetical order,
1043
01:23:49,720 --> 01:23:51,159
is as follows.
1044
01:24:31,920 --> 01:24:34,720
Congratulations to the winners
1045
01:24:35,279 --> 01:24:39,680
and of course to all of you
who submitted
1046
01:24:40,039 --> 01:24:44,359
your oils to this year's
Jaén Selección. Thank you very much.
1047
01:24:49,399 --> 01:24:51,159
The most important thing
1048
01:24:51,319 --> 01:24:53,760
is that today we've seen
the very best
1049
01:24:53,920 --> 01:24:57,319
of Spain's oils,
the revolutionary brand names
1050
01:24:57,479 --> 01:25:00,000
of the past 14 years.
1051
01:25:00,279 --> 01:25:03,760
Those that have qualified
over the last 12, 13, 14 years.
1052
01:25:03,920 --> 01:25:08,079
They are all present on the tables
of Spain's top restaurants,
1053
01:25:08,479 --> 01:25:10,000
delighting diners.
1054
01:25:10,359 --> 01:25:12,279
Our traditional cuisine
1055
01:25:12,479 --> 01:25:15,640
was always influenced by the French.
The use of butter.
1056
01:25:15,840 --> 01:25:18,640
We decided that since this is Spain
1057
01:25:19,079 --> 01:25:22,439
we want to showcase a product
that is healthier.
1058
01:25:22,600 --> 01:25:25,279
It can be served next to bread.
1059
01:25:25,439 --> 01:25:28,520
A spoonful can often be added
to dishes
1060
01:25:28,680 --> 01:25:30,199
where appropriate.
1061
01:25:30,359 --> 01:25:33,600
Besides, it's totally Spanish
and much tastier.
1062
01:25:33,760 --> 01:25:37,439
In some restaurants they serve
up to four different oils.
1063
01:25:37,600 --> 01:25:40,520
A Picual, an Hojiblanca, an Arbequina,
1064
01:25:40,680 --> 01:25:44,960
so you can choose
and even compare them.
1065
01:25:45,640 --> 01:25:48,600
Picual is great
for making potato puree.
1066
01:25:48,760 --> 01:25:51,159
Caviar and potato puree
go great together.
1067
01:25:51,840 --> 01:25:54,359
Some may say I'm talking rot,
1068
01:25:54,520 --> 01:25:58,119
but potato puree with this oil
and caviar is delicious
1069
01:25:58,279 --> 01:25:59,680
and they can get stuffed.
1070
01:25:59,880 --> 01:26:01,399
Picual is unique.
1071
01:26:01,600 --> 01:26:02,479
Picual...
1072
01:26:02,640 --> 01:26:05,119
A Picual... a Picual...
1073
01:26:05,359 --> 01:26:07,520
Picual oil... Picual... Picual.
1074
01:26:12,039 --> 01:26:14,119
That's what Picual means to me.
1075
01:26:16,640 --> 01:26:17,520
A tamed Picual.
1076
01:26:19,239 --> 01:26:22,159
It's the king of olive oils.
1077
01:26:22,319 --> 01:26:25,000
The variety Picual...
Picual oil.
1078
01:26:25,479 --> 01:26:26,880
This is a Picual.
1079
01:26:29,039 --> 01:26:31,159
For me Picual is a juice.
1080
01:26:32,760 --> 01:26:35,039
The first varietal is a Picual.
1081
01:26:35,279 --> 01:26:38,239
Picual is... It's everything in Jaén.
1082
01:26:38,680 --> 01:26:41,960
Picual is...
Jaén's flag is the Picual olive.
1083
01:26:42,279 --> 01:26:44,199
Picual? My Jaén!
1084
01:26:46,279 --> 01:26:48,560
It's a diamond, Picual is...
1085
01:26:49,960 --> 01:26:51,640
the best variety there is.
1086
01:26:51,800 --> 01:26:55,079
A saying I tend to include
in my guide is:
1087
01:26:55,239 --> 01:26:57,600
"Quality has no frontiers."
1088
01:26:57,760 --> 01:27:01,399
It's important there is good
extra virgin olive oil,
1089
01:27:01,560 --> 01:27:04,159
and I'm very happy to have awarded it
1090
01:27:04,319 --> 01:27:06,039
to an excellent Spanish company
1091
01:27:06,199 --> 01:27:07,439
that uses Picual.
1092
01:27:07,600 --> 01:27:10,760
Because it definitely deserves
the world's attention.
1093
01:27:10,920 --> 01:27:13,920
Italian tasters get a bit nervous,
1094
01:27:14,079 --> 01:27:16,079
because there is so much oil.
1095
01:27:16,239 --> 01:27:20,760
If all the quality is now
equally as good, their future is...
1096
01:27:20,920 --> 01:27:23,359
In today's best oil competitions,
1097
01:27:23,520 --> 01:27:28,840
not only Spanish and Andalusian names
are among the top, Jaén is too.
1098
01:27:29,000 --> 01:27:31,640
There are a series of...
1099
01:27:32,560 --> 01:27:35,159
olive oil producers
and olive harvesters
1100
01:27:35,319 --> 01:27:39,039
who bottle their own oils
in stylish bottles
1101
01:27:39,359 --> 01:27:41,520
with attractive labels.
1102
01:27:41,680 --> 01:27:44,000
I think they are real heroes.
1103
01:27:44,199 --> 01:27:46,119
We're not getting back
what we lost,
1104
01:27:46,279 --> 01:27:49,920
we're developing a potential
that was there, untapped.
1105
01:27:50,079 --> 01:27:54,760
It's the same as Formula I, tennis,
football and basketball in Spain.
1106
01:27:54,920 --> 01:27:56,319
Now it's oil's turn!
1107
01:27:56,479 --> 01:28:00,319
Oil is a complex and wonderful world,
1108
01:28:00,600 --> 01:28:03,000
but there is still a lot
to be discovered.
1109
01:28:03,199 --> 01:28:05,760
Jaén has such a bright future
1110
01:28:06,119 --> 01:28:10,760
that it's marvellous to experience it
and be part of a journey
1111
01:28:11,159 --> 01:28:13,960
that began quite recently,
1112
01:28:14,159 --> 01:28:16,640
but that goes all over
the whole world.